In Santorini, the landscape has a way of making itself known—even on the plate. Michelin-starred Chef Lefteris Lazarou draws on the island’s volcanic terrain, singular light, and proximity to the Aegean to shape a distinctly Santorinian expression of his influential approach to modern Greek seafood at Varoulko Santorini at Grace Hotel, Auberge Collection.
Since opening its Cycladic home at Grace Hotel in 2022, Varoulko Santorini has taken on what Lazarou calls its own “Santorinian voice”—rooted in the restaurant’s culinary philosophy, but responsive to the island around it. Local fava, prized by Lazarou for its depth and versatility, finds a natural place alongside fish and seafood, while indigenous Assyrtiko offers another expression of Santorini’s volcanic terrain.
That sense of place has long defined Lazarou’s cooking. One of his most enduring dishes, squid with basil pesto, dates to 1994: the squid is flambéed with ouzo, while Aegina pistachios stand in for traditional pine nuts. The result captures his philosophy of evolving Greek flavor without obscuring what made it recognizable in the first place.
Lazarou’s connection to the sea began long before Varoulko. Raised in Piraeus as the son of a ship’s cook, he grew up immersed in the ingredients, rituals, and people surrounding it. He would go on to become the first Greek chef to earn a Michelin star, bringing new attention not only to prized fish, but to the humble species and seafood that have long belonged to Greek tables.
Today, that perspective feels particularly at home in Santorini. “I don’t want to disguise the raw ingredient—I want to bring out its character,” Lazarou says. “Technique must serve the flavor, not overshadow it.” The result is a distinctly contemporary expression of Greece that looks forward without losing sight of where it began.
The connection between flavor and place guides Lazarou beyond his own kitchen, too. Here, the chef shares a few of the restaurants, producers and culinary experiences he considers essential to tasting Greece.
Varoulko Santorini, Grace Hotel
“The Varoulko experience begins with the view and the feel of the sea, continues through dishes that combine memory, seasonality, and creativity, and is completed with warm Greek hospitality.”
Must-order dish: Shrimp ceviche koilados
Yiannis Nomikos Estate, Santorini
“Yiannis Nomikos continues Santorini’s traditional dry-farming practices with remarkable dedication, personally overseeing every stage of the island’s renowned fava beans—from cultivation in the fields to the final packaging.”
Must-order dish: Santorini PDO fava, prepared simply with extra virgin olive oil, onion, and capers to showcase its velvety texture and delicate earthy sweetness.
C.OR.K Cellar & Organic Kitchen, Megalochori Village, Santorini
“C.OR.K is a wonderful spot located in Megalochori, one of the most traditional villages in Santorini where wine tastings and cooking classes are offered inside an authentic Santorini stone house ”
Must-order dish: Fresh made tuna mezze
To Psaraki, Vlychada, Santorini
“I keep coming back to To Psaraki for its unpretentious hospitality, outstanding seafood meze, and breathtaking setting overlooking the small harbor of Vlychada, where every meal is infused with the true flavors of the Aegean.”
Must-order dish: Sea bass carpaccio, grilled squid, and the sun-dried octopus.
Santo Wines Winery, Santorini
“Santo Wines supports Santorini’s local growers while preserving the island’s renowned dry-farmed cherry tomato—a small fruit bursting with concentrated flavor, intense aromas, and the unmistakable character of Santorini’s volcanic terroir.”
Must-order dish: Santorini PDO cherry tomatoes—enjoyed fresh when in season or as Santo’s rich tomato paste, prized for its distinctive sweet-and-tangy flavor and velvety texture.
