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The Art of Time

By Kristen Shirley | Photography Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels transforms precious metal and gemstones into enchanting automatons—centuries-old mechanical marvels that continue to captivate and spark the imagination today.

Van Cleef & Arpels is widely known for its exquisite, distinctly feminine jewelry designs, but the French maison has also emerged as a visionary force in haute horology with its automatons.

Sophisticated descendants of 18th-century time-keeping artistry, these one-of-a-kind masterpieces blend the mechanics of a clock with an unparalleled sense of whimsy, glamour, and creativity, telling stories through mesmerizing, animated scenes: Ballerinas twirl across mother-of-pearl dials, fairies wave diamond-dusted wands, and lovers embrace on miniature Parisian bridges—all brought to life within the confines of artistically crafted watch dials.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Fontaine aux Oiseaux automaton features a carved gold feather dial set with purple sapphires, tsavorites, and emeralds. Birds dance on the edge of the automaton’s fountain.

In 2017, Van Cleef & Arpels raised the bar even higher when it unveiled its first-ever large-scale automaton: Fée Ondine, an extraordinary clock topped with an animated bejeweled fairy that took seven years to complete. Since then, the house has continued to develop large-scale automaton clocks, featuring dramatic scenes-in-motion such as blooming flowers and orbiting planets.

 

The back of each bird is set with a geometric motif of inlaid gemstones.
Artisans used traditional methods to prepare the lacquer for the basin.

The bird’s head is sculpted from yellow gold and set with gemstones.

The top of the basin is crafted with Japanese eggshell marquetry.

The rippling water is made from 50 pieces of curved stones, including chalcedony and rock crystal, and the water lily leaves and flowers are crafted with cloisonné lacquer.

The flower opens to reveal a gem-set center. The gold birds are meticulously assembled.

The maison’s newest automaton, Fontaine aux Oiseaux, is perhaps its most complex—and romantic—yet. Requiring the collaborative efforts of 20 specialist workshops across France and Switzerland, it took 25,200 hours to create. When activated, water in the basin starts to ripple, a water lily blossoms, and a dragonfly rises into the air. Two birds perched on the edge of the basin lift their heads in song, and, their wings raised, move toward each other in a display of courtship.

The dragonfly’s wings are crafted from white mother-of-pearl inlaid with transparent plique-à-jour enamel and diamonds.

Watch enthusiasts can experience Van Cleef & Arpels’s creations firsthand at Watches & Wonders, the industry’s premiere event where top brands unveil new models for the trade and public. This year’s showcase takes place in Geneva April 1–7, 2026—and The Woodward, Auberge Collection, will be the most coveted place to stay among attendees.